1964 1/2-66 FORD MUSTANG, POWER BRAKE BOOSTER – #BB-C6466M

February 2nd, 2012

 

 

 

 

 

 

NOTE: Read these instructions carefully! Important: This kit is assembled for shipping purposes only! Be sure to check all nuts and bolts for adequate torque prior to use. Don’t forget!

MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS

  1. Remove old clevis and brake light switch from brake pedal.

  2. Remove original master cylinder and/or booster assembly.

  3. Remove original brake pedal.

  4. Drill (2) – 3/8” holes, (1) – 1/2” lower and (1) -1” lower in brake pedal from original pedal pin. (These 2 locations will allow you to change your pedal ratio to fit your needs. Note: OE pedal pin may need to be removed.

  5. Mount booster to existing firewall holes. Note: Booster mounting brackets are slotted to allow push rod alignment when positioning pedal pin.

  6. Install new pedal pin into the hole you had drilled into the pedal.

  7. Reinstall brake light switch onto pedal clevis.

  8. Reuse all plastic pedal bushings and install pedal clevis onto brake pedal pin.

  9. Make sure there is no preload on booster pushrod/clevis.

  10. Plumb brake lines accordingly.

  11. Bleed brakes. Enjoy!

Note: Prior to bleeding brakes it is required to bench bleed master cylinder.

1969 Indy 500 Pace Car

January 12th, 2012

Click Here To view more images of the Pace Car.

 

Option List:
# 396-325hp (T0318JB)
# 4-spd Muncie M21 (P9C05B)
# 3:73 Posi 12 bolt rear end (BU0415G2) – NOTE: Gear Ratio changed to 3:08 by me at time of purchase
# Air Conditioning (blows cold)
# Power Windows
# Endura Bumper
# Console w/Gauges
# Tachometer (Correct 5500 Redline)
# Power Top
# Tilt Steering
# Rosewood Wheel
# AM/FM Radio – NOTE: This item was added by me. Car came to me with one of those aftermarket units. Not 100% sure if this car had a factory AM/FM or not, but it does now.
# Rear Shoulder Harnesses – NOTE: These are NOT original as they do not have any date codes on the webbing. However, they are done 100% correct like factory. I got the car with these already installed.
# Quartz Clock Conversion
# Standard RS/SS Pace Car Package also includes PS, PDB, Cowl Induction, Deluxe Interior, Woodgrain Interior Package, etc..

 

 

SENDING UNIT

December 27th, 2011

The Ford F-Series Truck

December 20th, 2011

The Ford F-150 is the most well-known and purchased truck in Ford history.  Although early American truck manufacturers based their models off of the chassis design for the Model T, Ford itself  didn’t manufacture a truck until the F-Series was introduced in 1948 to accomadate the U.S. demand for farm trucks after World War II.  The full-size, 2-door , half-ton pick ups have gone on to become the best selling nameplate vehicle for over thirty-five years.

The Introduction of the Ford F-1

The introduction of the  F-Series was in 194,8 and were produced until 1952.   Their motto, “Built Stronger to Last Longer,” acted as an objective in their design.  Originally known as the “Bonus-Built” line, it introduced,   what are now hard to find classic Ford truck parts, such as the foot plunger operated “See-Clear” wind shield washer, that cleaned the flat, single-piece windshield.   Other options included a passenger-side taillight, a sun visor, and a passenger-side windshield wiper. The addition of chrome trim made the first ever F-Series a hit with truck buyers.

1948-1952 Ford F-Series Classic Car

1948-1952 Ford F-1 Restoration

 

The F-1 Becomes the F-100

The second generation of the F-Series introduced by Ford to the public in 1953, has become one of the most celebrated by Ford enthusiasts.  The second generation F-series ran production until 1956. This model featured rounded body lines and first time options, such as power steering and the driverized cab, which offered the same seating and dashboard arrangements as Ford’s regular automobiles.  In addition, Ford  highlighted its new automatic transmission, which was coined the “Ford-O-Matic”, and later became the “Cruise-O-Matic” in 1958.  The name was an attempt to familiarize the relatively new automatic transmission to public audiences.  During the 1970s as automatic transmissions became standard, Ford eventually dropped the name and began to refer to them as the MFX, C6, and C4 transmissions.  The original versions of Cruise-O-matic came in two sizes, and were internally referred to as MX for larger vehicles, and as FX for smaller vehicles.  The truck also came  with an optional heavy duty 4-speed or 3-speed manual transmission with overdrive.  They are probably most admired today for their wraparound windshields.  Many first and second generation F-1 and F-100 owners use a frame c-notch when lowering their restorations more than 4″.

1960 F-100

A restored 1960 F-100

 

A More Comfortable Ride For Third Generation Ford F-100 Owners

The third generation, introduced in 1957 and finished production in 1960.  This generation introduced, the now classic Ford truck look with the chrome grill. The hood sat evenly with the fenders, and the Ford dropped the running boards.  The bed was divided into two separate types–the Styleside with fullwidth bed or the optional classic stepside look was still available.  As well as a new heating and ventilation system, the 1959 models included  more opulent cab options, such as more comfortable padding in the seating.

In 1961, the F-Series brought about a completely redesigned truck with a wider look.  As Ford enthusiasts might already know, the Fourth generation brought about a many changes which separated them from the previous three generations.  For instance, in 1964, the cab and the body were separated, an alteration from the traditional unibody frame, as well as introducing the Twin I-Beam front suspension with coil springs.  As well, the 1965 model sported a complete different chassis, allowing certain parts such as the motor mounts and brakes to become interchangeable.

Why We Love Classic Ford Trucks and Classic Ford Truck Parts

After twelve generations, the Ford F-Series has become the nations best selling nameplate. Many changes have occurred throughout their more than 60 year history of the F-Series and that is a large part of the reason why the F-Series is such a focus of classic car enthusiasts. The parts and design of the first few generations of F-Series trucks include classic Ford truck parts that are no longer made, making the vehicles more valuable and interesting to classic car collectors. In addition, Ford is among the first makers of trucks in the American society, often referred to as classic American vehicles.

Over the years, Ford’s F-Series trucks have undergone a number of changes, going from basic and functional to massive and fully loaded. The beginning of the F-Series represents a simpler time when trucks were driven by farmers and men in the work force; they represented the hardworking man that enjoyed his ride and made the most of his time on the road. The changes have made the truck bigger, better and more powerful but there is something classic car enthusiasts find irresistible about the first four generations of the Ford F-Series.

Mono-leaf vs. Multi-leaf Springs

December 19th, 2011

Leaf springs are suspension springs generally used in automobiles since 1970’s production of vehicles. These springs are typically made of one or more flexible, thin, and flat steel strips that are linked together to make it work as a single unit. These steel strips that make one leaf spring are shaped like an arc. Its ends are attached to the bottom of a vehicle to support and help position the axle, as well as absorbing shocks.

There is methodology and science involved in the construction, usage, and installation of these leaf springs. The vehicle’s performance on the road depends largely on the installation and the type of leaf spring used. Leaf springs come in two basic forms, the multi leaf and mono leaf.

Mono-leaf Springs

1948-64 FORD F-1 and F-100 Truck Rear Mono Leaf Spring Set 18284

1948-64 FORD F-1 and F-100 Truck Rear Mono Leaf Spring Set 18284

Mono-leaf springs have one arc-formed steel strip that is thicker in the middle and thin on the ends. They are usually branded as low-rate thin leaf springs that work in locating rear ends. Basically, they substitute the Panhard bars and trailing arms used in three and four links systems.

Mono-leaf springs provide lesser spring rates that hold a vehicle up. They also offer lesser stiffness in terms of bending and controlling the axle wrap-up. A vehicle’s design should include extra leaf springs, third link, and lift bar system for added support in controlling accelerating forces that rotate the rear ends.

Multi-leaf Springs

1948-64 FORD F-1 & F-100 TRUCK, REAR MULTI LEAF SPRING SET

1948-64 FORD F-1 & F-100 TRUCK, REAR MULTI LEAF SPRING SET

Multi-leaf springs are made of a number of arc-formed steel strips. These steel strips come in various sizes that are joined with the shortest steel strips at the bottom and the longest steel strips at the top. Generally, multi-leaf springs can support greater loads compared to the mono-leaf springs. They provide higher spring rates for bumps and lesser rates for rebounds, which are both useful in supporting and controlling a vehicle’s axle wrap-up. Moreover, it offers better car performance and endurance.

Advantages of Using Leaf Springs

A leaf spring suspension provides more tolerance to tacky and rough roads. It allows the car to perform in consistent conditions. It supports chassis weight and efficiently controls chassis roll by employing wide spring base and higher rear moment center. When the vehicle is not mounted, it controls rear end wrap-ups, axle stifling, and braking forces. Like a Panhard bar, it controls lateral forces with less lateral movements. When under acceleration and braking, it reduces rear steer while maintaining wheelbase lengths.

For a perfect vehicle performance and ride height, as well as freshening up a worn-out suspension, install new F-100 leaf springs. It is one great way to prevent axle wrap and provides better vehicle stability and cornering. For more ride height or lower stance, use a small block kit to help level out the ride and get rid of any problems that may arise. Mostly, F-100 leaf springs come with complete leaf pack kits that contain separate leafs for future use, and they all are ready to install.

1963-1980 Chevy C/K

December 19th, 2011

When it came to reliability, durability and handsome looks, the Chevy C/K Series always delivered. The C/K represented Chevrolet’s full-sized pickup line from 1960 to 1999, making it one of the longest running automobile series in the U.S. market. These pickup trucks have proven to be very popular items among collectors throughout the world, since the Chevy C/K represents a quintessential piece of American life.

The Introduction of the Chevy C/K Series

A Restored 1964 Chevy C10

A Restored 1964 Chevy C10

The first-generation C/K appeared in 1960 with the new body style and a new designation system for trucks made by the American automobile manufacturer. The “C” designation in front of the series number for the truck denoted a two-wheel drive setup, while the “K” designation indicated a four-wheel drive setup. First generation C/K pickups were available with several six-cylinder and eight-cylinder engines, along with a standard “Fleetside/Wideside” bed or a fendered “Stepside/Fenderside” bed. The first generation underwent a major facelift that resulted in the elimination of the wraparound windshield, among other changes. Classic Chevy truck parts are in high demand for first generation C/K pickups, since these vehicles are highly collectable for their good looks and the early GM history they represent.

The Second Generation Chevy C/K–A Truck Lover’s Dream

Fully Restored 1970 Chevy C10

Fuly Restored 1970 Chevy C10

The second-generation C/K debuted in 1967 with a major redesign, one that earned it the nickname “Action Line.” Along with this thorough body redesign came the addition of comfort features that weren’t seen in most trucks until then, including sound deadening and upgraded interior accents. The second-generation C/K pickups offered an independent front suspension with coil springs for “C” pickups, while “K” pickups used a live axle on all four wheels. Redesigned powertrain components allowed the 1967 C/K to adopt a lower look while retaining transfer case to ground height.

The C/K was available with a number of engine choices; buyers could choose between the 250-cubic inch and 292-cubic inch six-cylinder engines and a 283-cubic inch and 327-cubic inch V8. After 1968, the 307-cubic inch V8 would replace the 283-cubic inch V8 and a 396-cubic inch V8 would be added as an option. Also available was the Longhorn, a specially designed 3/4-ton C/K pickup that could accommodate camper bodies up to 12-feet in length. In 1971, the C/K would be the first pickup on the market to feature front disc brakes as standard equipment. The second-generation C/K pickup proves popular with collectors today thanks to its attractive styling and excellent drivability. As a result, there are plenty of classic Chevy truck parts available for those who aim to keep their trucks in showroom stock condition or create a unique customized design of their own.

Just as the second-generation C/K represented a major break from the first-generation, the third-generation distinguished itself with a completely-new clean sheet redesign. Thanks to their relatively smooth appearance, created to encourage better aerodynamics and fuel efficiency, these trucks came to be known as the “rounded-line” generation. The third-generation had a healthy choice of engines, including the 350-cubic inch and 454-cubic inch V8 engines. The third-generation C/K would enjoy a 14-year run before being replaced by the fourth and final generation of C/K pickup trucks.

1955-57 PONTIAC FULLSIZE, disc brake conversion kit (lg. caliper)

December 7th, 2011

Read these instructions completely before installing this kit!!!
Before beginning installation, make sure your wheels fit on the disc rotor.

Make sure this kit fits your application before painting or plating. Parts that have been painted, plated or modified may not be returned.

This Conversion Kit uses the following General Motors rotors and calipers:

  • BUICK APOLLO, 76-77
  • OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS, 73-76
  • BUICK SKYLARK, 73-76
  • OLDSMOBILE OMEGA, 75-77
  • BUICK REGAL, 77
  • PONTIAC FIREBIRD, 70-77
  • CADILLAC SEVILLE, 75-77
  • PONTIAC GRAND PRIX, 73-77
  • CHEVROLET CAMARO, 70-77
  • CHEVROLET EL CAMINO, 71-77
  • CHEVROLET CHEVELLE, 73-76
  • GMC SPRINT, 71-77
  • CHEVROLET MONTE CARLO, 73-77
  • CHEVROLET NOVA, 77

NOTE: The calipers supplied with our complete kit are 1978-1981 Camaro/Firebird. They use a 10mm banjo bolt.

This is only a partial listing of applicable GM models. Ask your local parts person if your not sure. They are Raybestos #4059/#4060 (right and left respectively thru 76) and #4113/#4114 for 77.

  1. Remove early Chevy drums, brakes and backing plates from spindles. Make sure you retain the bearing nut and keyed washer.
  2. Thoroughly clean grease and dirt from spindle. Check for cracks or damage.
  3. Using one of the original bolts in the forward hole re-install the steering arm in its stock location on the spindle. Using the hardware supplied in the kit install the caliper mounting bracket on the rear of the spindle as shown in the figure. Insert the 1/4” thick round spacers between the bracket and the spindle. Check for adequate clearance between the bracket and spindle. Trim bracket if necessary.
  4. Examine the inner wheel bearing seating area on the spindle for nicks, etc. Emery cloth area as required for a smooth surface.
  5. Slide bearing adapter on spindle and drive into place using a hammer and a piece of tubing or pipe of suitable dimensions (1 1/2” pipe works great). DO NOT DAMAGE THE ADAPTER WHILE INSTALLING (use a rag for padding between tool and adapter). Drive adapter on until it seats firmly against spindle inner bearing shoulder.
  6. Remove bearings and inner seal from GM rotor. Remove GM inner bearing race and replace both the race and inner bearing assembly with that from a 71-80 Pinto or 70-78 Mustang. This is a widely used Ford inner wheel bearing that is readily available. It is also known as an A-13 inner bearing and consists of a L68149 cone and a L68110 race. Install a standard GM inner seal (national #8871).
  7. Install rotor on spindle making sure that inner bearing seats all the way onto bearing adapter. NOTE: Bearings and adapter are machined to a + .0005” tolerance. If bearing does not slide onto adapter easily it may be due to tolerance “stack-up”. This can be rectified by a small amount of fine emery “paper-work” on the bearing seating surface of the adapter.
  8. Install GM outer wheel bearing followed by the 3/4” I.D. x 1/4” spacer (supplied in kit) and then the stock Chevy keyed bearing retaining washer and retaining nut. Adjust bearings as required and install cotter key and bearing dust cover.
  9. Clean and inspect caliper for damage, leaks, etc. Install caliper on mounting bracket WITH BLEEDER FITTING UP using stock GM mounting bolts. Make sure the bolts aren’t bent or damaged before installing.
  10. Fill the brake system with the correct fluid, bleed and inspect for leaks.
  11. Check for any brake caliper/rotor/wheel interference.
  12. A proportioning valve may be required.*

*NOTE: In order to provide correct front to rear braking balance we suggest using a dual reservoir disc/drum type master cylinder compatible with the vehicle from which the front brakes were obtained.
*Will set wheels out 3/8” on each side.

A WORD TO THE WISE

You now have a front braking system far superior to the original installation. Because of this, it is strongly advised that the front end supporting and locating system be adequate to absorb the increased braking loads. Since normal braking action may tend to spread the forward edges of the front tires apart it is essential that you check for bent tie rods at suitable intervals. This “spreading” of the front wheels results in a compressive type of loading onto the tie rod and any “built in” bend may cause tie rod failure under severe braking.

1947-55 First CHEVY/GMC/3100 TRUCK ALUMINUM FUEL TANK – #AGT4754

November 17th, 2011

 

 

 

 

 

 

NOTE: Spare tires originally mounted under the bed will have to be removed.

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Remove the bed from the truck.
2. Remove the spare tire.
3. Remove the forward spare tire mounting crossmember. The
crossmember is located behind the shock mounts and bolted to the top of the frame.
4. The bracket that supports the rear brake line where the rear brake hose starts will have
to be relocated. Remove the rivet taking care to avoid damaging the bracket, brake line,
or the brake hose. The bracket will be reinstalled 3” forward of its original location after the fuel tank has been mounted.
5. Position the fuel tank under the rear of the truck between the rear crossmember and the rear axle. The fuel filler should be located to the left rear corner of the bed.
6. Using a floor jack against the bottom of the fuel tank, hold the fuel tank mounting flange tight against the bottom of the frame.
7. Using the flange backing strip as a template mark and drill 3 3/8” holes thru the bottom of the frame and the tank mounting flange on each side and the rear of the fuel tank.
8. Position the flange backing strip in the channel of the frame as shown in the diagram below.
9. Bolt the fuel tank in place using the nine 3/8 bolts, flat washers, and lock washers supplied with the kit.
10. Lower and remove the floor jack that was holding the fuel tank in place.
11. Position the brake line bracket 3” forward of its original location. Drill a 3/8 hole thru the frame and bolt the bracket onto the frame using the rivet hole in the bracket. It may be necessary to loosen the brake line retaining clips and “massage” the brake line to take up any slack.
12. Thread a fitting in to the bung located on the top of the fuel tank. Connect a vent hose to the fitting. (Make sure that the vent
hose is safe for use with gasoline) The other end of the vent hose should be located 18” above the gas cap.
13. Be sure to read and follow the instructions that came with the sending unit. Check that the resistance of the sending unit is correct for the fuel gauge. Install the fuel tank sending unit thru the flange on top of the fuel tank. Align the top of the sending unit mounting holes with the threaded holes in the sending unit flange on the top of the fuel tank making certain that the float can not contact the sides of the fuel tank or the inner baffles. Tighten the sending unit with the 5 10-32 screws supplied with the sending unit.

Parts List:
1 ea 1947-54 Fuel Tank
13 ea 3/8-16 x 1 grade 8 bolt
13 ea 3/8 Lock Washer
13 ea 3/8 Flat Washer
6 ea Flange Backing Strip
1 ea Gas Cap (trap door style tank only)
Required Parts:
Fuel Line
Hose Clamps
1/2” Vent hose
Fuel Level Sending Unit
Fuel Line Fittings



 

1961-68 CADILLAC DISC BRAKE CONVERSION – #WBKS6168

November 16th, 2011

INSTRUCTIONS

  1. Remove the factory drum brake assembly from the spindle. Make sure the spindle is clean and free of any dirt, grease or imperfections on the spindle pin. Note: It is not necessary to remove the spindle from the car to install the brake brackets.
  2. Un-bolt the factory steering arm from the spindle. Using the new hardware, bolt the small three hole bracket to the back of the steering arm. Do not tighten at this time. (Photo #A)
  3. Install the large bracket to the small three hole bracket and install the bolts loosely. Note: There is a left and right caliper bracket. (Photo #B)
  4. Install the caliper bracket to the top of spindle mount and install the 9/16” bolt with lock washer. (Photo #C)
  5. Tighten the lower and upper bracket to the spindle. The spindle is now ready for the installation of the aluminum hub, rotor and caliper to be installed. (Photo #C)

How to Remove ‘Shipping Bends’

November 16th, 2011

Due to size restrictions set by the carrier, some of our longer front to rear fuel and brake lines must be temporarily altered for shipping. Whenever necessary, these large radius “shipping bends” are added to a straight section of the line, near the middle. This facilitates easily returning your fine lines reproduction to its proper configuration. No tools are required to remove shipping bends.

 

 

1970-74 E Body Plymouth & Dodge Front Disc Brake Kit

August 15th, 2011

HOW TO: BLEED YOUR BRAKES

August 10th, 2011

Manufacturers recommend replacing your brake fluid every three years or so because most fluid deteriorates with use. Also, its affinity for water reduces the fluid’s heat resistance and can cause brake-system corrosion.

An essential part of replacing brake fluid is bleeding the system. While bleeding sounds as if leeches and a medieval barber might be involved, here it just means ridding the brake system of trapped air, something anyone handy with tools can accomplish at home with an able assistant.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED:

  • BOX END WRENCH(USE APPROPRIATE SIZE)
  • BRAKE FLUID(CHECK YOUR CAR’S REQUIREMENTS)
  • FLUID HOLDER AND TUBING(SHOULD BE AVAILABLE AT MOST AUTO PARTS STORES)
  • ASSISTANT(A FRIEND TO SAY ” PRESSURE”)

STEP ONE: Jack up the car and support it with jack stands. ( cinder blocks are the preferred alternative for those who want to ruin their neighbors’ property values.)

STEP TWO: Remove all four wheels.

STEP THREE: Locate the caliper bleeding screws, spray them with penetrating oil, and attempt to loosen them. If they snap off or strip, stop at once and summon the aid of a professional. Then, if possible, retighten all bleeder screws with care.

STEP FOUR: If it’s safe to proceed, check the fluid level in the brake master cylinder. Add fresh fluid if it;s lower than the marked “full” point. Use the specific type of fluid recommended in the owner’s manual because there are several different kinds and not all of them play well together. During brake bleeding, the master cylinder cap should be left unscrewed but still in place atop the reservoir.

STEP FIVE: Each brake must be bled in the correct sequence. The general format is to bleed the brake most distant from the master cylinder first, but some cars require a different order. That information is available in the factory manual or from your dealer’s service department.

STEP SIX: Fit one end of a piece of clear tubing tightly over the bleeder screw and put the other end into a catch container. A plastic 20-ounce soda bottle works well here. To discourage air from returning to the system through an open bleeder screw, hang the catch container well above the caliper.

STEP SEVEN: With the car’s engine off, have your able assistant pump the brake pedal for several strokes until he or she notice resistance underfoot. The assistant should shout out “Pressure!” when a firm pedal is achieved. (You may also use whatever safe-word you and your companion have worked out from earlier encounters.)

STEP EIGHT: While the assistant maintains pressure on the pedal, open the bleeder screw a small amount. Fluid will pass through the clear tube, and the pedal will begin dropping toward the floor.

STEP NINE: Before the pedal reaches the floor, the assistant must yell “Floor!” Quickly close the bleeder screw when you hear the warning. Look under the hood and recheck the reservoir’s fluid level; add brake fluid if necessary.

STEP TEN: Repeat steps 7-9 at least five times until the stream of fluid flowing through the clear tubing is free of air bubbles.

STEP ELEVEN: Repeat steps 7-10 at the remaining three brake locations in proper sequence.

STEP TWELVE: While the assistant applies full effort to the brake pedal followed by an abrupt release of that effort, observe the motion of the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir. If there is a substantial fluid eruption, there are air bubbles still trapped in the system. You must repeat the bleeding procedure to remove that air. A modest disturbance in the fluid returning to the reservoir indicates a properly bled brake system.

STEP THIRTEEN: Double check that all bleeder screws are tight before installing the car’s wheels. Failure to complete this step will likely result in an unplanned trip to a medieval barber.


Chevy/GMC Tubular Lower Control Arms

July 27th, 2011

Performance Online has new Chevy/GMC tubular lower control arms for the ’63-72 trucks. The control arms work great with lowered trucks. They correct the camber, ball-joint angle, and ground-clearance problems often found when using a drop spindle or lowered coil spring.

View entire article | Source: Custom Classic Trucks

Universal Power

July 27th, 2011

Performance Online (POL) offers the first power window conversion for virtually any vehicle on the market. POL’s unique cable design allows you to mount the window motor almost anywhere in the door. This unique setup uses the original window regulator.

View entire article | Source: Street Rodder

Full Boost – 52-72 Ford/Mercury

July 27th, 2011

Add power brakes to your ’52-72 Ford or Mercury full-size car without major modifications with this new power booster brake kit from Performance Online (POL).

View entire article | Source: Rod & Custom

1953-56 Ford F-100 Truck, Firewall Mount Power Brake Booster Kit

July 26th, 2011

Part # BBF-T5356

NOTE:  Booster may differ from picture depending on type of booster options you have chosen.

STEPS: Read these instructions carefully!
Important: This kit is assembled for shipping purposes only! Be sure to
check all nuts and bolts for adequate torque prior to use. Don’t forget!
Make sure this kit fits your application prior to painting or plating. Note
that chroming or painting the booster can cause it to malfunction if not
done properly. Parts that have been plated, painted or modified may not
be returned.

  1. Installation of this kit requires the removal of the stock steering
    column brace. The stock steering column brace is the shaded area in FIG 1. The spot welds need to be broken or drilled out to remove this brace.
  2. When the brace is removed, a 2-1/2” hole must be drilled with a hole
    saw 7” from the firewall seam edge and 8-1/2” in from the hood hinge
    bolts. Mount the brackets to the steering column drop mount holes. Line up the 2-1/2” holes in the bracket and the firewall and clamp in place. Use the bracket as a guide to drill the 1/2” mounting holes.

PARTS:
1 – POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
1 – MASTER CYLINDER
1 – BOOSTER MOUNTING BRACKET
1 – PEDAL PUSH ROD ASSEMBLY

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COLUMN SAVER STC-100

July 26th, 2011
  1. Cut the column tube approximately 1″ below the floor line.
  2. Remove the steering shaft and cut it 2″ shorter than the tube.
  3. Fit the shaft sleeve and 3/47″ double D shaft over the stock shaft and weld it into place.
  4. Re-install the shaft into the column.
  5. Test fit the bearing into the tube. If it is too loose, fit and weld the bearing sleeve into the tube. Keep the tube as short as possible.
  6. Fit in the bearing and the shaft lock collar, spin the shaft to check clearance.

That’s it, fit it up to your steering system and go cruzin’!

INSTRUCTIONS (RS-500/ RS-510)

July 19th, 2011
READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY!
  1. Remove all stock rear suspension.
  2. Locate the axle (center line) – You may want to mock up the bed, fenders and tires for this. The stock axle is not really in the middle of the fender. Take your time on this. Measuring is much easier if you set the truck level all the way around.
  3. Measure 24″ in front of the axle on each frame rail. Check these marks with a standard point on the frame – Such as cab mounts, or front suspension mounts. Balance your frame marks with these check measurements.
  4. Line up the front spring mounts so that the ” spring eye mounting holes” are centered in the mark at 24″. Drill out the holes to 3/8′ in the frame and bolt them on.
  5. Measure from your front marks on the frame back 47 3/4″ and mark the frame. Again, use a standard location and check the location. Line up the shackle mounts centering the bushings on the rear mark, drill and bolt in.
  6. Assemble the springs, shackles, and rear axle. Mock up the shocks to the lower mounts. Trim the upper mount tube to fit into the frame. Mock up the upper mounts to the shocks and position the tube square in the frame and weld.
  7. Set the pinion angle and weld the axle pads to the housing.

TORQUE:

U-bolts                               65 ft/lbs

Spring Mounts                 50ft/lbs

Shackle Mounts               50 ft/lbs

Front Spring Bolts          45 ft/lbs

Rear Shackles                   25 ft/lbs

Shock Mounts                  25 ft/lbs

CALTRACS TRACTION BAR

July 7th, 2011

Technical Brake Information

June 29th, 2011

TESTING THE PROPORTIONING VALVE FOR PROPER OPERATION:

  1. Use a test light by attaching a clip to a positive contact on the vehicle and touch the point of the test and the electrical connection of the combination valve. If the light does not come on, the valve system is operating correctly and further testing is not required.
  2. If the light does appear, this indicates that the pressure differential valve is stuck in the front of rear position.
  3. Bleed the brake system to determine which is blocked off. Set up one front wheel and one rear wheel for bleeding at the same time. Crack both the bleeder screw and gently pump the brake pedal a few times. The blocked side will trickle fluid out when the bleeder screw is cracked and the pedal is pressed. An unblocked line will squirt fluid from the bleeder.
  4. The lines that are clear must be left open and the blocked lines should have the bleeder screws tight to cause pressure to build up on that side. Be sure to use that standard bleeding procedures to prevent air from entering the brake system.
  5. Slowly press the pedal with steady pressure a number of times until the light goes out. This will center the differential valve. You may also hear a pop come from the proportioning valve. This is the metering valve returning to its equalized position. When the light goes out, close the bleeder screw.

WHAT TO DO IF YOU SUSPECT YOUR BOOSTER IS NOT WORKING:

It is rare that one of our kits will contain a defective power booster but, if you suspect that your booster is not functioning correctly, perform the following tests:

Basic Test:

  1. With the engine off press and release the brake pedal several time to eliminate vacuum from the power section.
  2. Press the pedal and hold down with light pressure, 15 to 25 pounds.
  3. Start engines.
  4. If the power unit is operating, the pedal will drop slightly. Less pressure will be needed to hold the pedal down.

IF BOOSTER IS NOT OPERATING (GIVING A VERY HARD PEDAL):

  1. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the booster check valve and check the vacuum level at this point with the engine running with a vacuum gauge. You should have at least 18″ vacuum to the booster. Anything lower will begin to give a hard pedal. If the vacuum level is below 18″ you may be able to tune that engine and bring the vacuum level up to the level. If the vacuum level is around 16″ the addition of a vacuum reserve canister will improve braking. If the vacuum is below 16″ you will need to add an electric vacuum assist pump to supplement the engine vacuum.
  2. If the vacuum level at the check valve is 18″ check that the booster check valve is working. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the check valve and attach a piece of tubing. Blow into the valve. If the air passes through the valve, it is defective and needs to be replaced. Also look into the hose attachment neck on the check valve and be sure there is no obstruction inside the valve.
  3. Check your booster for a vacuum leak. With everything hooked up, run the engine at moderate speed. Release the accelerator and turn the engine off. Wait 90 seconds and apply the brakes. If the brake applications are power assisted there is no leak. If there is no assisting, the booster is defective and must be replaced.

IF THE BOOSTER IS OPERATING BUT YOU STILL HAVE A HARD PEDAL:

  1. Your combination valve may have tripped shutting off fluid to the front or rear brakes. This condition will produce a very hard pedal. Check that fluid passed through the valve to both the from and rear by cracking a bleeder screw and observing a good flow of fluid. If one half of the system does not have flow, recenter the valve.
  2. You may have frozen rear cylinders of frozen caliper pistons. If these components freeze you can get a very hard pedal.
  3. Your pedal ratio may be too low. Check your pedal ratio. The pedal ratio must be in between 4:1 to 5:1. Some of the older cars that had power brakes used a ratio of almost 1:1. If you add a vacuum booster to this type of car you will have a very hard pedal. typically we are talking about late 50′s cars. Adjust ratio as necessary.
  4. Your booster may be undersized for the weight of the vehicle or the bore size of the master. If you try to use a small diameter booster such as a 7″ street rod booster for a heavy car you will get a very hard pedal. Compounding the problem is an attempt to use a large bore master (1-1/4″ or larger) on a small booster.

IF YOUR BRAKE PEDAL IS VERY SENSITIVE AND THE BRAKES GRAB:

  1. Your pedal ratio may be to high. Power brakes will require a 4:1 to 5:1 ratio. If your ratio is around 6:1 you are getting to much mechanical advantage making the brakes extremely sensitive. Adjust the ratio to the correct level.
  2. The booster may be too large for the weight of the vehicle. Light weight vehicles with large boosters give you “touchy brakes”. This effect may dampen somewhat by going to a larger bore master.
  3. Too large booster for front drum brakes. Drum brakes do not require as much pressure as disc brakes (500 psi vs. 1000 psi). If your booster is very large (11″) and you have drum brake you are over-boosted. Do a pressure test to determine what you have.
  4. The booster has a cracker internal hub. When there is a crack in the phenoli hub inside the booster it will either be totally on or totally off. Any slight pressure to the pedal will cause the brakes to lock up. The booster must be replace.