STEPS: Read these instructions carefully!
IMPORTANT: This kit is assembled for shipping
purposes only! Be sure to check all nuts and bolts for adequate torque prior to use. don’t forget!
- Remove original master cylinder, pedal clevis and hard lines.
- Remove master cylinder from power booster as you will need to bench bleed it prior to bleeding the system. Inexpensive bleeder kits are available at any auto parts store for minimal cost. We also sell a bleeder kit. Install your pedal clevis onto booster.
- Install the booster onto the original studs that mounted the master cylinder to the firewall. You will find that there is a second set of studs in the firewall from the factory for this purpose. NOTE: SOME FIREWALL STUDS WERE COURSE THREAD AND SOME WERE FINE THREAD, YOU WILL NEED TO SUPPLY THE APPROPRIATE NUTS FOR THE INSTALLATION!
- There should be two pedal clevis holes in the brake pedal (if not you will need to drill a 3/8” hole 1” lower than the original clevis hole in pedal). Mount the clevis into the lower hole and check for proper adjustment by making sure the brake pedal is all the way up and no pressure is being applied to the booster. Be sure to tighten the clevis jam nut.
- Mount your bench bled master cylinder to the power booster. Connect all appropriate hard lines and bleed the system. NOTE: ON GM MASTER CYLINDERS, THE FRONT PORT IS FOR THE FRONT BRAKES AND THE REAR PORT IS FOR THE REAR BRAKES.
- If you are running disc brakes be sure to have the proper proportioning valve kit for your application.
- Double check all of your work and proceed to check the system for any leaks.
- Be sure to hook up your vacuum line to the appropriate port on the manifold.
- We highly recommend that you perform a vacuum check on your particular engine. Acceptable vacuum numbers would be from 15in/hg to 22in/hg. For those who have lower numbers we offer a vacuum pump. Call for details.
- We also offer disc brake master cylinders and proportioning valves for those who do not want to run power brakes. Call for details.